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This is a first attempt, there’s tons of room for improvement.  Take the concept and run with it- specialize it to meet your brooding preferences and needs.  This is my first version, and I’ve just gotten chicks to legitimize it works 🙂

"ecoglow"-style DIY brooderWhat you’ll need:
A (seal-able) container, a string of mini Christmas lights, and some sand
Some wide tape and a utility knife
A way to suspend the brooder- some baler twine, heavy string (P-cord),  and a simple frame/table or shelf of wood, sturdy pvc, metal, whatever you have available

This is like an “ecoglow” in that it provides radiant heat/ direct heat that the chicks snuggle up to.
I looked into purchasing one, but it’s out of my price range and I couldn’t justify the cost, especially since I don’t brood very many chicks.
There’s a concept from Confederate Money Farm that uses bulb Christmas lights in a pipe to brood chicks- their “PVC pipe pet warmer”.  The other concept I drew from is from Jessie: Improved. The idea is using Christmas tree lights in sand under seedlings as a warming/propagation mat.

I started with a (roughly) 9×13 plastic lidded container from the dollar store.  I cut a hole in the top for the christmas lights to exit and spread the remainder in the container, then filled the container with sand.  I used clear packing tape and taped the hole inside and out where the lights exit, then taped the lid to the container on all 4 sides.  (Duct tape or something similar will do equally well.)

DIY "ecoglow"-style brooder light entry detail
Use a bigger container or make 2 if you have more chicks to brood.  This one provides plenty of space for 15 and I’m sure would easily accommodate 25 (it’s larger than the “ecoglow 20” that says it’s good for 20 chicks).

Guidelines here:  More lights= hotter.   If yours is too hot, here’s some options:
1) Use a dimmer
2) use a smaller strand of lights
3) pull part of your strand of lights out of the container before filling with sand
4) use a strand with a good portion of lights burned out
5) use a bigger container and more sand

Bottom line: Adjust your lights and container size, or use a dimmer to get the temperature you need, whether you need it hotter or cooler.
The chicks will also move around to find a spot with a temperature they like.  If it’s a bit hot in the center, they’ll move closer to an edge, or just hand out along the side, or hop up on top- just as you sometimes see them do to a broody hen.  I found half a dozen of them contentedly sitting on the top last night.

chick on top of my DIY "ecoglow"-style brooder

My first attempt was too hot- interior temp of the sand was almost 160, directly underneath was 110- too hot for chicks!  (Good thing I didn’t have any live subjects in the trial phase!)  I think this may have caused some of my lights to burn out.  But, that solved my temperature problem.

Next step is to suspend your brooder at the right height.  I used part of a shelf system, but a simple PVC frame could be used, or wood or metal frame.

"ecoglow"-style DIY brooder 2

Mine is high tech: suspended at the correct height with 2 strands of baler twine, taped on the bottom to keep if from shifting.  Please assemble and adjust your brooder BEFORE you put your chicks in!  You want it secure and safe so you don’t squish a baby with that heavy container full of sand!
To make an easy-to-adjust knot/hitch:  tie a loop on one end of your twine (I used an overhand knot on a bite).

loop for knot-hitch system

Put your knots on the top of the frame, run the twine under the brooder, back around to the top, and through the loop.  Pull the loose end of the twine back the direction it came.

loose end through loop

Once you have it at the height you want, pinch it at the loop so it can’t slide.  Tie a “slip knot” with the loose end at your pinch- pull a loop of the loose end close to the loop through- just as if you were tying a simple knot, but only using a small portion near the loop.

starting the slip knot

Tighten and repeat with the other twine.

slip knot complete  simple knot:hitch system from baler twine

Secure with tape on the bottom of the brooder.
If you have chicks of different sizes and want an uneven surface as you can with the “ecoglow”, you can tie one end of the brooder a little higher than the other.

Some other possibilities for suspension:
You could suspend with chain or small rope, either going underneath the brooder or attached to the rim of your container if it’s sturdy enough.  You may also be able to construct legs- perhaps threaded rod with nuts fixed to the corners of a frame supporting the lip of your container- to allow for twist-up or twist-down fine adjustments as the chicks grow.

You could just prop it up on blocks or bricks, but that uses up your brooding space pretty quickly.

I put mine in a corner of my brooder to keep it a cozy little heat-holding space.  I also built up bedding at one side, so it’s mainly one side that is “open” but they can get out another side if they need to.  chicks under my DIY "ecoglow"-style brooder

Advantages: cheaper (especially if you have materials kicking around), DIY, provides a little bit of light so the chicks can see to eat and drink at night, less power input, less fire risk, and a final benefit this booder has that an “ecoglow” or a heat lamp doesn’t have- A built-in reserve of heat.  If your power goes off or your light(s) fail, the heat that has been absorbed and stored by the sand will stay warm for quite a while, extending the time your chicks will survive, especially since they’re already used to snuggling down together under it’s semi-enclosed space- kind of like an ‘igloo”‘ in the ‘cold brooder’ models (see more about cold brooding at The Natural Chicken).
Disadvantages:  It’s heavy, you cannot see your chicks (just as with the ecoglow), it still takes some materials and time to assemble and tweak, and it’s not very refined (yet- but that means a benefit of flexing the concept to meet your wants and needs).

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First of all, I’ll recommend that you just get the color satin you want in the first place- it’s much simpler.

However, for various reasons, you may be looking to dye some satin garment at home.  In my case, I’m taking the white satin flower girl dresses I made for my brother-in-law’s wedding over the summer and making them into dresses to wear for Christmas and beyond.

white satin dress before  flower girls dresses before

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Perhaps you have a yard sale find, something you have on hand, or you happen to really like the uneven dyed effect and/or want multiple colors for a wild dyed look.  Whatever the reason, here’s a process you can try.

This was done on white costume satin- nothing fancy- not silk satin or bridal satin.

Second of all, this is an experimental process.  It worked for me, but I don’t know how long it will last as the dresses are washed, and I’m certain there is lots of tweaking that could/should be done to improve the process.

I haven’t done those experiments- to see if the color can be darkened or evened or what have you.  I’ll pass along a few suggestions at the end, but it’s an untried process.

Thirdly, this is a very messy, smelly process.  The rubbing alcohol can be very overwhelming.  I recommend a well ventilated area and a place you can get messy, and time to let yourself have a breather as needed.  If you clean things up right away, it helps.  However, drying after dip-dying creates run-off.  Unless you really like those colored rivers on your bathtub, protect your surfaces (or use an area where surfaces can be stained).  If you end up with a stain issue, you *should* be able to clean up hard surfaces with some more rubbing alcohol, but please use careful judgement.

messy process

Because it’s a messy process- use tools and/or gloves or prepare to be the same color as your project!  It’ll probably be very drying to your hands as well given the alcohol.

And fourthly- this process has imperfections and is an uneven process.  It will not create perfectly evenly stained fabric.  It will not create deep, rich colors.  In searching for a way to dye satin online, I found the need to use specialty products, and still to expect nothing more than light colors.

close up of dry from dip dye  dry from dip dye   close it's still not even

I only tried this on white fabric.  I am fairly certain only light colors would work, and any color the fabric has will create an undertone color that affects your end result.

Use a scrap and trial your project first.  Some colors wash out differently than they begin (red and orange produced hot pink, dark green turned blue).

On to the process.  You will need rubbing alcohol and permanent markers.  I got my markers at the dollar store- so cheapies work fine.  The rubbing alcohol I used was 91%.  I don’t know if the dilution of the 70% or 50% would affect how the dye worked, but I felt the higher % was probably an asset to this project- for drying time and for dye concentration.

supplies

This is loosely based on the sharpie marker tie dye commonly seen in tutorials online.  I first tried fabric dye dissolved in rubbing alcohol and it didn’t work.  But a trial of rubbing alcohol  dripped onto a sharpie marker spot on a satin scrap did work and didn’t completely wash out.

Proportions:  I used 3 markers to 1-32 oz. container of 91% rubbing alcohol.  (it’s fine to use different color markers- I used blue, light green, and dark green in combination).

I mixed mine up in a pail (first an ice cream pail, then a 5 gallon bucket- obviously use a container that will hold your item if you are dip-dying).

First, get a pair of pliers and pull apart the marker.  Throw the felt (the part you write with) into your rubbing alcohol. Then pull the marker apart and take out the fountain- the part that holds all the extra ink that feeds into the felt.  It’s likely enclosed in a plastic tube/straw.  Some of these will pull apart easily- just take the inside ink portion out and drop it into the alcohol.  If it won’t just pull out, you have to cut off the plastic portion.  I used a seam ripper to rip up one side and then pull out the innards.  A small pair of scissors would also work.  Swirl it all around to disperse the color into the alcohol and out of the marker innards.

marker partly pulled apart          the marker innards in the alcohol

You now have finished making your dye!

Now for your garment.  Dip-dye or spray dye- these are the 2 methods I used.

dip dye in bucket     spray bottle of dye mix

Since I had tucked fabric rather than flat, my process was affected.  It altered how the alcohol evaporated and dripped/ran , so it left the dye unevenly.  I imagine it would work this way with most anything, but especially the tucked fabric.

I also couldn’t just spray the fabric, as it wouldn’t get into all the tucks evenly.  So I ended up dip-dying first, letting it dry, then spraying it (with some attention to get into the majority of the tucks, but not every nook and cranny).

So dip and wring and hang to let the alcohol evaporate (dry) or spray and leave it for the alcohol to evaporate.

just dip dyed       all spray dyed and dry

Repeating the dipping process will NOT deepen the color.  The alcohol dilutes and disperses the dye, so really all that is happening is the marker ink is left on the garment after the alcohol evaporates.  Re-dipping simply allows the ink to be moved into solution again and put into a different spot.  That’s why rubbing alcohol works to remove permanent ink from some surfaces.  But it’s also why this process will work on the satin while water-based dyes will not.

The spraying worked to increase the concentration of the dye a little at a time onto the garment.  A smaller amount evaporates more quickly, leaving more of the permanent ink more evenly on the fabric.  (One of the reasons why I think the higher % of alcohol is a better carrier in this process).  There’s still limits to the concentration achieved by spraying, as fresh alcohol on the surface affects the ink already there.

If you are dipping, then spraying, let the garment dry between applications.  Likewise, let it dry between coats of spray if you are trying multiple coats.  Once you have added all of your dye and let it all dry, you can do a rinse in water.  It should be pretty stable.  You will get some wash-out of the color in the rinsing, as in any dying process. Note below the changes.  The greenish dress on the far left has been dyed, but not rinsed.  The more blue in the center has been rinsed in the water.  So really, do a trial or you may be surprised.  The far right picture shows the completed dresses.

rinsing and magic color change      all done!  rinsed and dry

I’ll also repeat here that I’m unsure of the long-term staying-power of this dye- for all I know it gradually lightens with each washing and will be gone after a half a dozen washes.  If I ever find out, I’ll try to update.  So as a precaution, wash gently- perhaps hand-wash, and use limited soaps or detergents.

Variations to try:

greater concentration of color (=add more markers to increase the concentration of your dye).  Since there’s a limit to the color as it’s dipped or sprayed, your only ability to deepen the color will come from increasing it’s concentration before it’s applied.

“gel stain”- they have gel stains to make them “no drip” for applications like concrete.  To make a gel stain version of this dye, I had thought about trying hand sanitizer (check the % on the back of the bottle).  If the color wont disperse directly into the sanitizer, I would try a very small amount of regular alcohol to disperse the dye, then mix it into the sanitizer.  This would be more expensive, and I don’t know how it would dry.  It still probably dries unevenly and will leave a mottled effect.

You might possibly be able to achieve colors by mixing that you can’t get straight from the marker.  Example: the orange marker turned hot pink, but perhaps red and yellow markers would create an orange-ish color.

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My dear friend and sister-in-law pinned a T-shirt on pinterest- it says “Ask me about my T-rex” then you can flip the T-shirt over your head and it’s like dress-up pretend play for boys in a T-shirt.  (Boys-if any of you read my crafty posts- correct me if I’m wrong?)  The T-shirt can be seen here at Crazy dog t-shirts.

Anyhow, since she liked it for her little boy (aka my handsome nephew) I wanted to try to make one.  And since he had a thing for dragons when he visited last summer, I changed it up a bit.

I picked up a simple T-shirt from the dollar store.  Using some fabric paint and a brush, “Ask Me About My Dragon” went on the front.  I used a stencil for the lettering on freezer paper, then cut out the letters and did the freezer-paper stencil thing to keep it nice and neat while painting the letters on the shirt.  (Lots of tutorials available online about freezer paper stenciling).  If you can do awesome lettering by hand, you can skip this part!

Ask me about my dragon text  Ask me about my dragon freezer paper stencils and fabric paint

On the inside, I had to come up with the dragon.  Since he’s only 3, I opted for a cutesy only slightly scary looking dragon- freehand drawing with a bit of consulting to get some dragon look ideas from a few kids books.

I drew this on freezer paper as well.  Once I liked my drawing, I darkened the basic lines- keep it simple!   I transferred a little differently.  I cut around the outline of the dragon and a few larger details, like the eyes.  Then ironed it on the shirt.

Remember:

1) upside-down

2) on the inside-out shirt

3) on the front of the shirt

so it comes out right when you’re done!

 

After outlining, I lifted more portions of the freezer paper and drew in the main lines as I went to get the basic outline onto the shirt.

Then the fabric paint and brush again.

Ask me about my dragon dragon

If I was going to do it again, I would go with my first instincts (that I later dis-regarded and regretted)

I’d use a scrap of T-shirt to insert the dragon on the inside to keep the bleed-through of the paint from showing on the front of the shirt.  Boo 😦

Ask me about my dragon bleed-through

One option would be to cut a block of scrap T-shirt in the same size and shape (except for the sleeves) as the front of this T-shirt.  Then paint the dragon upside-down at the bottom, and then stitch it to the inside of the T-shirt- along the side seam, in front of the arm, along the shoulder, and at the neckline, plus across the bottom.

The other option would be to cut a strip as wide as the t-shirt but that would fold in half (more detail following).  Re-work the seam at the side of the shirt – a slit on each side up most of the way to the armpit.  The T-shirt strip I cut would be seamed to the sides that were cut- the strip being twice as tall as the slit and folding in half.  It would fill in the gap- so the strip creates a new bottom hem of the t-shirt as well as a lift up flap with the existing T-shirt.  probably it would need to be seamed across the center of the T-shirt as well to keep it from sagging.  Then velcro on the sides to hold the flap down when it wasn’t being lifted to show off the awesome dragon (or whatever else).  You could do an opening mouth for all sorts of critters with the fold this way.

More work, but it won’t show anyone’s belly (if you’re modifying this for a girl) and it works for little kids who have heads that are so much larger in proportion to their body, or may not want to put anything over their faces that obscures their vision, or are sensitive to the cold, scratchy fabric paint against their tummies.

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Here’s a quick look at the latest progress in building our house- hand scraped flooring.  John ordered the scraper online and tried it out- the scraper is from Hardwood Industry Products if you’re looking for one (no sponsorship, just a link). The floor is made of salvaged pine boards that used to be a wall in an old house. John scraped and sealed it over the past week.

Although he’d removed some paint from the boards with the planer and some with a hand paint scraper, the blades wear down a lot quicker with boards that have paint on them.  If you’re curious about details, ask below and I’ll answer.  He scraped the entire board, leaving some high spots/patina.

Next time (on boards without the paint) he thinks he will try just at the edges to smooth the transitions between boards but leave more of that old patina on the boards.  (Also would be a quicker floor.) He spent 2 days scraping this one- approximately  12’x14′ room.

IMG_7085

Close up hand scraping a foor

IMG_7084

Hand scraping a floor

IMG_7080

hand scraped floor- upper portion has been scraped, lower portion has not

Hand scraped floor sealed

Hand scraped floor sealed

hand scraped floor detail

hand scraped floor detail

hand scraped floor

hand scraped floor

hand scraped floor close/profile

hand scraped floor close/profile

hand scraped floor detail

hand scraped floor detail

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Nothing too original with this one- I just followed the directions over at Somewhat Simple.

Cut the bottom off of a bottle and put a baby sock over the bottle (enclosing the hole you made by cutting off the bottom). Dip it in straight dish soap (in any container with a flat bottom that will accommodate your bubble snake).  I used the super cheap stuff from the dollar store.

  

For each kid at VBS, they got 5 minutes to color an infant sock with permanent markers (put the sock on the bottle, then color).  Then we spent the rest of the time blowing bubbles for our last night of VBS.  Each crew was different.  One group competed for longest snake, another group worked together to make a giant bubble pile/cloud on the ground, some just ran around and blew their bubbles.

  

Pre-school age kids are most likely to breath IN when they put their mouth on the bottle, so encourage them to only blow out, or they’ll get bubbles in their mouth.

These were super simple, but tons of fun for all ages!  They’ve seen a lot of use at my house this summer!

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These butterfly notebooks were the craft for day 4.  With school upcoming, this seemed like a fun and practical craft that should really be useful.  I made some other versions for my girls at home- definitely a neat back to school craft as well.

They are a bit time consuming to prepare, but it’s a neat craft that sticks nicely to the butterfly as a theme for the Resurrection (the bible story for the 4th day of VBS).

I got spiral notebooks at the back-to-school sales.  Clear re-positionable contact paper comes in a roll 18″x24′.  I think other sizes were also available.

My butterfly was really a simplified blown up version of a butterfly stencil.  The copier did all the hard work for me to size it, then I just transferred it onto a piece of cereal box to make a stencil.  Of course, any object will work, or letters.  Use your stencil to trace your shape, or free hand it.

Small scissors or an exacto knife work well for cutting out the shapes, but I had a free-form shape cutter that I’d used for one of my crafts last year (someday I’ll post about it) that sped things up quite a bit to make the number I needed.  I couldn’t cut them out completely with the free-form cutter since the base of the cutter wouldn’t go over the spirals in the notebook, but it was simple to cut the rest of the wings with scissors.  Whatever shape you use, remember to keep them simple if you have a lot to do!

    

Once the shape is cut out, you move on to the contact paper.  I put on the outside layer for each notebook and left the paper backing inside so that it wouldn’t adhere to the first page.  This stuff is forgiving and re-positionable, especially for the outside piece.  The size of  your piece will vary based on the size of your cut-out shape.  Just make sure it overlaps your shape by at least 1/2″ or so.  I cut the inside piece of contact paper and slipped it into each notebook for after the kids decorated them.

   

Regarding applying that piece of contact paper, you can take the whole backing off and set it on like a giant sticker- reasonably easy to do.  But for the kids to do it (and maybe adults, too- whatever you prefer), this is a better method:  Start to remove the backing from one edge of the contact paper.  Set it on the cut out shape and adhere the edge, make sure the whole piece sits squarely over the cut-out.  Then pull the loose edge of the paper backing from underneath the contact paper and smooth it down as you pull off the backing. I did “burnish” the surface to get it to stick better once it was properly placed, but only for the front- the kids didn’t burnish the inside.   To burnish I used the handles of my scissors to rub the contact paper and get it to adhere better to the notebook.

           

Now for some inside decoration.  I used shaped paper punches (butterflies, stars, helicopters, and planes) and fine glitter in the little shaker containers.  I punched a full 8 1/2″x11″ paper of each, and for 66 kids that was sufficient.  It also kept things simpler with only one color choice for each punched shape.  Adults handed out the shapes to the kids- a small pinch of punched shapes goes a long way.  I handed out the last of my stars and almost all my butterflies to the last crew that came through, but no one lacked any.  Stick the paper punch outs on first, then the glitter.  Don’t get too crazy with the glitter, or less of the contact paper will stick.  Also, be sure to brush off excess glitter from the inside cover before trying to put on the contact paper so it has more places to adhere to seal in all those decorations.

I tried crayon shavings at home and melted them with an iron after I put the contact paper on.  They turned out okay, but the melted crayons aren’t an appealing look where they seep into the notebook cover.  It’s most obvious around the clown nose below.

Once the decorations are in and the cover is swept clear of excess glitter, The inner piece of contact paper can be put on. (Review directions above for the easiest way for the kids to apply the contact paper themselves, or at least help.)

Done!

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So if you’ve been in the stores, the back to school sales are starting.  That meant spiral notebooks were $0.17 each (half the price of filler paper, if you’re a comparison shopper).

I picked up quite a few, since even though I don’t have any kids in school yet, they’re pretty handy (and I know I’ll need them someday).

I was just thinking about a new journal, and thought I’d try a notebook refashion of sorts instead of starting from scratch with copy paper, sewing the little booklets together, binding it, and the whole bit (although I love the process and am extremely thankful for 8th grade studio art with Mr. Wolfe to learn to make them.  I’ve made dozens in various forms since!)

Here’s a shortened version, utilizing the spiral of the notebook to replace the binding process.  The cloth covering remains much the same as I first learned it.

First, cut your spiral notebook in half.  Mine was 5 1/4″ to center.  I used a utility knife and cut through as far as I could, flipped open what was cut, and repeated until the paper was in 2 pieces.  DON’T cut the wire.

   

Next, pull out the spiral.  you’ll have to un-bend the end of the wire so that it will twist out.  Keep twisting until it is completely out of both sides.

      

The little holes the spiral goes through need to line up on your two halves.  Hopefully when you cut your notebook in half, the cut landed in the middle of a hole, or exactly between two holes.  If it didn’t for some reason, the two halves will have to sit a little bit overlapped.  Stack the paper together (holes lined up) as well as the front cover and the back cover.  You don’t HAVE to keep both of the cover pieces, but it makes for a sturdier cover.

Glue the two fronts together- ensuring those little spiral binding holes line up.  Repeat with the back two cover pieces.  When you glue, spread the glue on, then smooth to fully cover to the edges and all spaces between with your finger or a paintbrush.

  

Weight the pieces down to dry a bit-or fully if you’re patient or have lots of other projects between steps.

Find your fabric.  Most will work, but particularly thin fabric will be prone to shiny spots of dried glue leak-through, and particularly thick fabric can be hard to manage at the corners.  Set your covers on the fabric, leaving a gap a bit bigger than the thickness of your paper stack between the two (NOTE:  if you want the spiral to show outside of the fabric when you’re done, don’t leave quite as big of a gap here).   Trim the fabric leaving about an inch around the outside of the cover.  For a more intense refashion project, pick an old shirt, dress, skirt, pants, or other fabric item and repurpose the fabric.

  

Glue the covers.  I left the very top where the binding holes are free of glue, but if the spiral will be showing outside, this is unnecessary.  If you’re hiding the spiral, leave the top free of glue.  Remember to spread the glue thin and even.  Splotches of glue will leak through the fabric and make shiny dark spots on the outside (and will knock you some points for the grade on your finished book if you’re making these for a class!)  Weight to press and let it dry a bit.

  

Now for corners.  spread a little glue in the corner of each end.  Pull the corner of the fabric in overtop of the notebook corner.  Press.

  

Then the edges.  Spread glue between the corners (not on the fabric in between the two notebook covers).  Weight the cover again and let it set a bit.

While you wait for things to press (any stage above) you can work on the inside cover plates.  You’ll cut 2 pieces of paper 1/4-1/2 inch smaller in dimension than your notebook pieces.  Mine was 5 1/4″ x 8″, so I made my cover plates 5″x 7 1/4″.  Decorate or leave it plain. use fancy paper if you like.  This can be glued on before or after you do the binding (below).  If it’s particularly nice paper, you may want to wait until after to prevent any damage to the paper while you fight with the binding wire.  Everything just gets handled a lot in the process.

Now to bind it all back together.  There’s two options- one is to let the spiral show outside of the fabric.  The other is to hide the spiral under the fabric.  Hiding is a bit trickier and pickier, but if you like, it, it’s worth it.

Directions are the same for both with a few exceptions- details at the end for the hidden spiral.

First, stack your inside pieces of paper on the cover (turned inside out).  Make sure the holes line up again- you may have to feel for them through the fabric.  The 3 hole punch will be easy to feel, and if you cut a spiral binding hole in half, that edge is easy to feel, even though it’s hidden under the fabric.

We increased the thickness of the book, so the spiral binding will need to be made a little larger.  That’s why it was important not to cut the wire when we cut the notebook in half.  (Obviously, you can also make two of these little books, skip glueing the cover pieces together, make two covers, and leave the spiral normal size, just cut in two equal portions).

If you hold both ends and twist in from both sides, it will force the wire to expand a bit.  It will need to be done in small sections (a couple inches at a time) and may not bend into a perfectly round pretty spiral like it started, but it will work.  Alternately, you could stretch the wire and twist it around something larger (like a magic marker) to make a nice, pretty, evenly round spiral again.

Take the end of the spiral wire and stick it through your fabric where the binding holes begin- through both covers.  Then continue through the first binding hole in your stack of paper (it’s easiest if this is clipped together).  You may have to get it half way through the paper and shift the end of the wire a bit to get through the second half of the stack.

Continue to twist the wire onto the paper and through the cover until you reach the other end.  As you get closer to the end, you’ll need to twist extra wire on and pliers may be helpful to keep the wire going into the next hole.

  

At the end, bend the end of the wire over again like it was originally in the notebook.  Ensure you have enough wire for the rest of the book, clip the other end of the wire and bend it there as well.

Now for the tricky notes on the hidden spiral… I made sure to fold down the center fabric below the spiral binding holes so the final wires would be inside of the book.  The beginning and end are difficult because there’s two layers of fabric.  Use something like the end of the paintbrush to separate the layers of fabric along the edge.  The inside layer of fabric goes up, the outside goes down.

The first and last spiral binding holes are the worst, so if you make it through them, you’re golden.  Press through the fabric as above, but check after you do to make sure you didn’t accidentally go through the outside layer as well before moving on.    It only is a concern for the first 3 and the last 3 holes.

Turn it right side out and enjoy!

  

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